Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
